The rain falls a little colder, and the daylight disappears a little faster, and a nice roast duck waits on top of a bed of choûcroute, the French term for sauerkraut. And indeed, sauerkraut's potential goes far beyond the topping for a polish sausage at the ball game.

Pickled cabbage is one of the oldest prepared vegetables in the world. It first appeared in Asia, pickled with both vinegar and brine, and thrives in forms such as kim-chi and pao cai. Although the Romans also brined cabbage, the Mongols reintroduced brined vegetables into Europe. By the sixteenth century, the Germans began producing sauerkraut in pretty much the modern form. Since sauerkraut is high in vitamin C, German sailing ships kept it on board to prevent scurvy, much as the British used limes.

Sauerkraut simply means "soured cabbage", and is produced when salt is added to shredded cabbage: (add 1/4 cup salt to 5 lbs. cabbage) The salt draws out the cabbage juice and salt-tolerant lacto-bacilli ferment the cabbage, producing the lactic acid that gives sauerkraut its tang.

Traditionally, sauerkraut is braised or sautéed. The famous Alsatian choûcroute garni, is a prime example of braised sauerkraut with charcuterie items such as sausage, bacon, and ham, garnishing the sauerkraut. Sauerkraut's natural acidity pairs off well against rich winter foods. When braised with beets, it makes a brilliant red stuffing for Chinese hum bao, and the Germans even braise fish with kraut.

As the weather grows colder and those Seattle nights start falling earlier and earlier, you can find some warmth in the choûcroute served at the Palace Kitchen.