Alba white truffles, the rare and extraordinarily expensive Italian fungi, are otherworldly. Pungent and garlicky, these dense knobby delicacies come into season each November, ranging in dimension from the size of a walnut to that of your fist. Alba truffles have a symbiotic relationship with trees and grow beneath oak, hazelnut and linden trees.

Since white truffles never break the ground's surface and are invisible to our human eye, they must be detected by an animal's powerful sense of smell. Pigs, dogs or goats are commonly used to identify where truffles are hiding. Scientists have found that the musky chemical produced by truffles is the same chemical found in the saliva of male pigs. This chemical which prompts mating behavior in sows, explains the pigs' interest in hunting for truffles and is one reason why hunters prefer trained dogs to hunt their truffles, rather than battle with the pigs' agenda!

When buying fresh white truffles, choose firm, dry ones with a headily pungent scent. If the aroma is subtle, the truffle is either no longer fresh or of an inferior quality. Proper storage is imperative - truffles should be sealed in an airtight container and refrigerated. Alternately, they can be stored in a jar with butter or whole eggs, which even through the egg shell, will be perfumed by the truffles. The flavored eggs and butter can then be used to cook delicious omelets or sauces. Truffles should be used as soon as possible as after four days they lose nearly half of their sugars and starch.

Classically, white truffles are served raw and finely shaved over fresh pastas or risotto. In the town of Bra near Alba, I enjoyed a decadent Piedmontese dish of pasta in warm cream with fresh egg yolk. The shaved white truffles were added at the last moment, and gently cooked in the warm perfumed cream. The aroma of that dish made my dinner companions both curious and jealous.

At the Dahlia Lounge, we are celebrating both Alba white truffles and regional Piedmontese cooking with our holiday tasting menu.