by Dave Mecklenberg, Palace Kitchen senior cook

The first months of summer always incite a craving in me. As with the first asparagus in spring, summer's first cherries tempt me to gluttony. We are fortunate here in the Northwest, since cherries grow abundantly in Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. This article will omit the cherry's formidable dessert repertoire; others can discuss that field with far more aplomb. I will rather focus on a few other uses, although I admit that the classic Schwarzwälderkirschtorte is my favorite cake since cherries become available around my birthday.

Cherries, with their subtle tang and balanced sweetness are well suited to many savory dishes. Duck or pork, in my opinion, benefit the most from this pairing. Oranges frequently come to mind when preparing duck, but a rich stock reduction augmented with Bing cherries perfectly balances the rich meat of duck. Fresh Rainier cherries are a delicious addition to a salad with confit of duck and perhaps watercress or arugula. A pork loin stuffed with sour cherries and flamed with kirschwasser can create a dramatic dinner.

One tip when cooking cherries in sauces: leave the stones intact. If you really want to pit them, save the stones and tie them in a bag or spice infuser and cook with the sauce. The kernels contain the fundamental essence of the cherry. In fact, Kirschwasser, the German fire-water distilled from sour cherries, depends on the stones to supercharge its aroma.

Speaking of liquors, we are fond of infused spirits at the Palace Kitchen, and I have one favorite technique for preserving their fresh flavor for use later in the year. For each pound of fruit, you will need 2 cups of 80 proof liquor. Brandy and rum are delicious, but I prefer a good vodka, since the cherries take center stage. Try sweetening this with 1/3 cup of honey, or 1/2 cup sugar syrup. Store in crocks or jars in a cool place. By winter you will have a fantastic cordial, free of the additives of commercial preparations. The strained cherries can be used in winter recipes or Christmas puddings. You will not only preserve the cherries, but summer itself.