WHO'S NEW IN THE KITCHEN?
Toby Matasar is our Executive Pastry Chef for the three restaurants. Originally
from Chicago, Toby has wide experience as a pastry baker and comes to Seattle
after five years in New York working for Arcadia, City Bakery and the Lobster
Club. Here's a little introduction to Toby.
What's the difference between working in a New York restaurant and a Seattle
restaurant?
The hours you work! A regular day in a New York restaurant is no
less then 12 hours a day, and often 14. And a six day work week is more common
too. In New York, I had to make all the desserts for a very busy restaurant with
no assistants and that included petit fours for every guest. Here, there is a
staff of five assistant bakers and while I still have some long days, it's
nowhere near the length of my New York work week.
I especially love the team aspect of the restaurant community out here. It goes
without saying that it's more laid back in Seattle. Seattle customers have very
high standards and are very appreciative. I love reading our customer's comment
cards. New York customers are a little more difficult to please some days.
What goes into creating a dessert?
First I talk to each chef and we discuss what
we've been thinking about for the restaurants and the season that we are in. As
with a dinner or lunch menu, the season means everything before deciding what to
make. And then there are the "building blocks" - type, flavor, texture, and
appearance. A lot of pastry baking is very focused on the architecture of the
plate, but for me that comes last. Of course it has to look visually appealing
and the way the plate looks is a big part of the sensory experience. But if it
doesn't taste good first and it's just an architectural masterpiece, then it
doesn't make sense.
It's also important to have variety in the overall menu so when I'm trying to
think of a new dessert, I take into consideration what else it's "competing"
with. Everyone has their favorite dessert so we try to make sure that the menu
has something for everyone.
Why should people eat dessert?
Because it's good for you - heart, mind and
soul! The whole dining experience is more fully rounded and satisfying when you
end with sweetness. When you've experienced the other aspects of the sensation
of taste (saltiness, acidity or bitterness) during your meal, you don't want to
leave out the sweet. So have dessert, even if just a few bites!
What is the most difficult dessert to make?
The coconut cream pie - not because
it's complex, but just keeping up with the demand is a challenge! We make over
25 pies a day - that's over 9,000 pies a year - for the three restaurants plus
individual orders for the die hard coconut cream pie fanatics. And this is
before the new bakery has even opened!
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