SALMON SEASON

One of the rites of spring in our three Seattle restaurants is the arrival of the Copper River salmon season. The icy Copper River, which runs through south-central Alaska, is the mountainous home of a fish famous for its delicious, rich flavor, texture and red-orange color. The Copper River salmon's premium flavor is the result of high oil reserves stored up by the fish in preparation for its arduous trip up the river to spawn. Copper River Kings are the most prized and the commercial fishing industry harvests between 50,000 and 60,000 salmon during the three week May run. The Copper River sockeye season runs through September when over 1.2 millions fish are harvested.

Because of aqua farming, many types of salmon are available year round, but their wild season is summer. Salmon are born in fresh water and migrate to salt water for one to four years before they return to their ancestral river to spawn. Salmon stop eating once they leave salt water so the best time to catch them is just before they enter fresh water. At this point, their flesh has the highest fat and protein content. The fat content is determined by the length of time they spend in the ocean and the distance they must cover to reproduce. The longer the distance, the more body fat they produce to prepare for the journey. More fat creates better texture and flavor. Here's a primer on salmon for your visits to the seafood counter:

King: also known as Chinook, this is among the first types available wild, with its season beginning in May. The King has the highest fat content, making it buttery and rich. The fish average fifteen to forty pounds.

Sockeye: The most prized salmon in Japan. It has the most vivid flesh of all salmon, averages about six pounds each and has a medium fat content.

Coho: This has a medium fat content making its meat more flaky with less flavor, averaging six to twelve pounds apiece.

Pink: With its low fat content, it is usually sold canned. Its season is early fall and these fish are the smallest, averaging three to five pounds each.

Chum: This has the lowest fat content which gives it coarse textured flesh. It is the least expensive type available and is mostly smoked. These fish average eight to ten pounds in weight and their season, which runs through October, makes them the latest salmon of the year.

Steelhead: These used to be called steelhead trout but have recently been reclassified as Pacific salmon. Steelhead survive after spawning and are often farmed.

Within these types, salmon are also described by how they are caught. Farm Salmon are raised in net-pens while Wild Salmon are either troll caught (caught on baited fishig lines) or net caught. We prefer troll caught because the fish are gutted and bled on board, so the meat is firmer.

Salmon are also named for the place they come from, as with Coppper River or Yukon River salmon. And then there is Atlantic Salmon. This is confusing title because Atlantic salmon are native to the Atlantic but can be farmed in the Pacific. Unlike Pacific salmon, Atlantic salmon don't die after they reproduce; they can return to fresh water up to four times. These fish are mostly farmed rather than caught wild.