I recently had the opportunity to spend four days in New York City and four days in Paris—the former to announce the release of my new book, Tom's Big Dinners, and the latter to celebrate Jackie's and my 20th Wedding Anniversary. 

Most of the four days in New York were spent with my good friend Ed Levine, co-writer of Tom's Big Dinners. Ed is often referred to as the 'missionary of the delicious' both for his articles in the New York Times food section and for his renowned authority on the best bites in the Big Apple's five boroughs. (Check out Ed’s terrific book, New York Eats More). Over a pepperoni pizza with a delightfully coal-blackened crust at John's Pizza in the theatre district, Ed mentioned a recent interview he had done with his favorite American food writer and humorist, Calvin Trillin. I read the article (in the November issue of Bon Appetit) and knew I had found a kindred spirit.

In the opening of his book American Fried, Calvin Trillin says "The best restaurants in the world are, of course, in Kansas City. Not all of them; only the top four or five." Calvin was the first American writer to celebrate the joys of eating regional foods in this country, like fried chicken at Stroud's, or barbecue at Arthur Bryant's, and he tapped into America's passion for its local favorites. Calvin says that if he never ate in a Michelin three star restaurant again, that would be fine by him. Oddly, I think I agree with him.

A perfect example was our anniversary lunch at Guy Savoy near the Arc de Triomphe. One hundred dollars for a bowl of artichoke soup with tasteless black truffles? Snotty servers forced to wait on a table of "untouchables"…oh, I mean tourists. Every dish overwrought with the insecurity only a Michelin guidebook can instill in a chef. Instead you could go to the 150 year old L'Amis Louie or Benoit and dine delightfully, unburdened of the fear of using the wrong "forchette." These are the real Parisian icons; not cheap, but oh so satisfying. Their rooms are noisy with vibrant conversation, waiters doing just fine (without two captains, a wine steward, three bussers) and the food, traditional maybe, but earthy and soul satisfying, just like in Kansas City.

Eating in the brasseries and bistros of Paris made me long for restaurants with 'age' in Seattle; Maximilien, Tai Tung, Merchants Café or the Athenian. As my palate gets older, and probably a bit more jaded, I relish a certain amount of history in restaurants. Stories told not by words, but by twenty coats of paint, corroded mirrors, and cracked plaster. Parents celebrating their children's 40th birthdays at the same table where they themselves dated and dreamed of a family and life together 40 years before. Menus framed on the walls with their prices etched in history hang next to photos of VIP customers mugging for the camera.

Eventually great restaurants can transcend time by staying focused on what’s really important; atmosphere, quality food, and a professional, courteous staff. I think Seattle's most successful "old" restaurant is Canlis — and it's only 55-years young, still brimming with confidence, still offering extraordinary attention to detail.

Try some of my favorite tastes next time you're visiting the Big Apple or Gay Paree!

New York City
Prime Burger — with chili relish
John’s Pizza — coal fired
Amuse — antipasto courses
Judson Grill — roast pork
Pearl — Lobster roll

Paris
Lami Louis — Scallops, Duck confit, Cote du Boeuf
Benoit — Cassoulet
Libresens — Lamb shoulder w/ white beans
Laduree — macaroons, breakfast
Angelina’s — hot chocolate

Tom and Jackie