Etta’s Manila Clam Chowder
Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Etta’s creamy clam chowder didn’t make it into either of our cookbooks, and our customers have been begging us for the recipe for years. So, finally, we got out the measuring spoons and cups and tested the darn thing for you. If you don’t feel like making your own clam chowder, it’s always on the lunch, brunch, and dinner menus at Etta’s.

2 cups dry white wine
1 cup bottled or canned clam juice, or more as needed
3 pounds Manila or steamer size clams, rinsed
¼ pound sliced bacon, diced
1 cup finely diced celery
1 cup finely diced leeks (white and light green part only)
1 cup peeled and diced potato
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups heavy cream, hot
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
about 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper

To steam the clams, put the wine in a large saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat, and boil until the volume is reduced by half. Add the clam juice and bring the liquid back to a boil. Add the clams, cover, and cook over high heat just until the clams open, about 4 minutes.

Set a colander over a large bowl and pour the clams into the colander, reserving both the clams and all the liquid. Pick the clams out of the shells, discarding the shells, and coarsely chop the clam meat. Strain the reserved liquid through a cheesecloth-lined strainer. You should have 4 cups liquid, if not, add more clam juice. Pour the clam liquid into a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium high heat.

To finish the chowder, set a large pot over medium-high heat and cook the bacon until it starts to crisp. Add the celery and leeks and cook, stirring as needed, until the vegetables are soft, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add the hot clam liquid and the potatoes and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the flour, a tablespoon at a time, whisking until smooth. Cook the roux for a minute or two. Ladle about 1 cup of hot, strained liquid from the chowder and gradually add it to the roux, whisking until smooth. Then scrape the roux into the chowder pot, stirring until smooth. Simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, whisking occasionally.

Add the hot cream to the chowder and stir until smooth. Add the clam meat and simmer for 1 minute. Add the thyme and the lemon juice and season with freshly ground black pepper. (The clams are salty so you may not need salt.)

Remove from the heat and serve.

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